Return to the Madreland

I arrived back to Oaxaca, my home away from home, very late in the evening and totally relieved to land in more familiar surroundings. There was a little studio apartment waiting for me with plenty of drinking water, a clean and comfortable bed, and an actual hot shower. Heaven!

If it isn't obvious already, I've fallen in love with the city of Oaxaca de Juarez. As my time here comes to an end (for now), I'm thinking of the best way to accurately describe my visit... hmf.

Highlights?

Teotitlan del Valle:

Located about forty minutes outside of Oaxaca de Juarez, this small Zapotec town is near Mitla, home to some of the most important archaeological sites in Mexico. More importantly, it's home to some of the most interesting food and beautiful displays of weaving and rug-making artistry I've seen.

I was lucky enough to visit the restaurant Tlamanalli, run by a family of sisters who specialize in pre-Columbian cuisine. It's not cheap by Mexican standards, but well worth the extra expense.

Open kitchen...

A chicken dish consisting of ingredients local to the region - varietal corn, chiles, local herbs, bugs, etc... excellent.

When you go to Teotitlan you will be tempted to visit every rug maker in the village. You only need to visit one, the Perez factory and showroom. Designer/Owner Nelson Perez Mendoza gives a detailed explanation of his dying process using all natural and sustainable materials, as well as the story behind his unique designs which have now been copied by just about every rug maker in the region. In addition, his prices for the quality of his wares can't be beat. Sadly, I have neither the space in my luggage nor the room in my home to justify a purchase. I wish I wasn't so practical sometimes.

All the ingredients needed to produce every imaginable color

Dyed-in-the-wool Yarn

Nelson Perez Mendoza discussing his designs

It's also worth noting that the indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec people in Oaxaca must be some of the most resilient and hardest working people in Mexico. Families involve all members in the learning of and assisting in their ancestral trades. Even children are expected to take on a role, and not just because it's necessary but because they believe there is tremendous value in contributing starting from the earliest age. Most people speak both their native language (there are 16 official) and Spanish fluently, and many are equally fluent in English. It's refreshing and impressive compared to how we do in the U.S.

Mercados/Markets:

I'm very blessed to live in California, a part of the world abundant in natural food resources as well as a city that offers a wonderful selection of fresh and local foods by way of farmer's markets. In the state of Oaxaca farmers markets are, despite the creeping-in of big box outlets (there are Sams Clubs and Walmarts now), still the main source of food supply for the average person.

Some shots from the Sunday market in the town of Tlacolula about half way between Mitla and the city...

Beep-beep!

Go early, beat the crowd

Meat market

You buy it, they'll cook it

Chicken scratchers

El Mercado Central, Oaxaca de Juarez...

Fish Fry

Tlayudas, Oaxacan Pizza

Chorizo: Why I could never be a vegetarian

Huitlacoche - Mexican Truffle, corn fungus

Ayocotl - Edible bean flower

==

Oh geez, it's time to go. Like, really go. I have to pack for my very early morning flight. I'm all teary so I'm going to leave the post here for now. There will be many more posts highlighting my trip, I promise. For now, I need to gather all my crap and my senses.

Stay tuned!